Costa Rica, world-famous ecotourism destination, and once considered the leader in ecotourism-development and conservation, is facing some demanding challenges. During the 70s and 80s, Costa Rica’s biodiversity and beauty were known to the world through an ecotourism industry that grew slowly but steadily, based on comparatively abundant scientific information. The country was compact, with good infrastructure, political stability and a high diversity of climate and ecosystems, making it a prime place for academic work for researchers and students from across the world.

Ecotourism, based on small-to-medium-size operations, has proved to be an excellent tool for local development and at the same time has generated interest and income for biodiversity conservation. Small towns around local attractions like the Arenal volcano or Monteverde cloud forest have thrived. The establishment of an economic development network generates income for owners of hotels and restaurants, and also for farmers producing food, providers of transportation, car rentals, horses, bicycles, guides, souvenirs, supermarkets, and many other product- and service-providers that the tourism industry requires. Entry fees for protected areas generate the much-needed funds for the park management to meet conservation objectives. Estimates made in 1995 in Monteverde indicated that 83 per cent of the money spent by tourists stayed in the local community.

The increased growth of nature, adventure and ecotourism in the late 80s and early 90s brought worldwide attention to Costa Rica. With this, large tourism chains were also attracted. So-called ‘perverse incentives’ like 10-year tax exemptions, and support from strong high-ranking politicians (including presidents) were given to these big multinational companies in the belief that the investments would generate means for economic development. Most of the resorts were built without regard to the environment, in many cases violating the law. Highways where built or paved by the government to provide easy access. Concessions for ferry boats and other services were given, to the detriment of the ones operated by local groups.

But the long-awaited benefits are not of the magnitude promised. It is well known that these corporations transfer only small amounts of what a tourist pays to the countries where they are exploiting the resources. Many of them operate on the all-inclusive system. This isolates the tourists completely from the local communities. The big corporations bring the food in large trucks from the large distributors, not from local farmers. Cheap labour is provided for gardeners, room-keepers and other low-class jobs.

The end result is a higher demand on infrastructure by the increase in tourist numbers. In the late 1990s, Costa Rica received close to one million tourists, in 2005 the number increased to over 1.5 million. But income per tourist per trip has actually decreased. In 2001 income per trip was close to US$1200, with an average stay of 11 days. Now this figure is US$850, even though the average trip is 13 days.

The Guanacaste region where most of the resorts have been developed continues to be where some of the poorest communities are found. On top of this, the development of holiday houses for rich foreigners around the resorts has increased the real estate value, forcing locals to sell their land and migrate to the cities. At the same time, the landscape is strongly affected, with the loss of many of the beautiful natural sights that brought tourists here in the first place.

This cycle is not unique to Costa Rica. Many other countries are going through the same process. But there is still hope for ecotourism. Educated and experienced tourists are now more aware of the impacts they are making. Tourism certification has started to play a small but growing role. The empowerment of local communities and the negative effects of mass tourism becoming more visible to tourists as well as residents are generating changes at local level. Costa Rica’s Ecotourism Chamber, established only a few years ago, is working hard to promote best practices among its members. Owners of smaller companies, recognised by their positive environmental, social and cultural impacts, are starting to take positions in the National Tourism Chamber, instead of the traditional large hotel-owners.

But the government must come to realise that, due to prevailing interests, it may take some time before adequate tourism development policies are established.